Category: India

Legend has it that within the walls of the mansions of Karaikudi lie hidden treasures, carefully concealed by the wealthy Chettiars to protect their fortunes from invaders. Rumours of ghostly apparitions drifting through the corridors only add to the intrigue as residents and visitors share stories of eerie encounters and unexplained phenomena. But it’s not just the supernatural that lurks within the walls of these opulent homes. Behind the façade of wealth and splendour lies a darker history of family feuds and betrayals. Sibling rivalries, clandestine affairs, and secret alliances are whispered in hushed tones, their echoes reverberating through the halls. Yet amidst the tales of curses and hexes, there is also a sense of awe and wonder at the architectural marvels that testify to the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the Chettiar builders. Each mansion tells its own story through its unique blend of indigenous and colonial styles, its hidden symbols and motifs hinting at mysteries yet to be unravelled.

Initially a part of the Pandiyan Dynastry and later under the rule of various dynasties such as the Cholas, Cheras and Pallavas, Karaikudi is tied to the Nattukottai Chettiar community. The Chettiars were renowned for their business astuteness, engaging in trade and banking across Southeast Asia. They established a network of businesses, bringing wealth and prosperity to Karaikudi and the surrounding areas.

The profuse mansions of Chettinad stand as a testament to the region’s prosperous past and architectural prowess. At first, these houses might seem compact from the outside; however, hidden behind the exterior walls are spacious inner courtyards adorned with luxurious Burmese teak furnishings and majestic Italian marble columns. Beneath your feet lie the Athangudi tiles, whispering tales of a past long gone. The spaces above the window frames are adorned with miniature paintings of everything ranging from different flowers and patterns to even paintings of gods and goddesses.

Each mansion is a work of art, reflecting a unique blend of indigenous and colonial influences. These architectural marvels offer a glimpse into Chettinad’s illustrious history and cultural heritage. The Atthangudi Palace in Karaikudi stands tall to attest to the region’s rich cultural heritage. This magnificent palace is a sight and portal to the past, beckoning visitors to step back in time and experience the grandeur of a bygone era. A personal visit to Karaikudi exposed me to these architectural marvels. I vividly remember a younger version of me staring up at the tall ceiling, the geometric tile pattern below and the timeless elegance of the window and its paintings.

The Athangudi tiles felt so perfect yet simple at the same time. Witnessing the tile-making process, one will realise why they are popular and how sustainable they are, making them stand out. First, the glass base is placed on a foundation, followed by the outer frame and a brass pattern mould. Colours are poured into the design grill according to the desired pattern, and after laying the colour layer, a dry mixture of sand and cement is spread on top, and then the mould is filled with wet mortar. The tile is left to dry, soaked in water, and dried again before removing the glass and sanding the edges. This process makes these tiles economically affordable, sustainable, and durable, representing a blend of tradition and modernity without the need for firing or electricity during manufacturing.

The spiritual wealth of Karaikudi is not to be underestimated either. With each clan having their respective temples built, only nine clan temples are considered the most auspicious and are also known as the ‘Nine Temples of Chettiars’. The Karpaka Vinayakar Temple, popularly known as the Pillayarpatti Temple, dedicated to Lord Ganesha, is a revered temple 12 km from Karaikudi. It is well-known for its magnificent rock-cut images of Ganesha, Siva linga, and other splendid carvings. The temple’s history dates back to the 7th century, with some parts possibly even older. The temple has a colourful gopuram, intricately designed mandapams, and shrines that follow Agamic texts and Shilpa Sastras, still attracting devotees, particularly

women during annual festivals and chariot processions like Vinayaka Chaturthi and Brahmothsavam in Vaikasi month.

During my stay at the Bangla and Heritage Resort, I took a cooking class and watched the chefs expertly prepare local Chettinad dishes, and it became evident why this cuisine is so beloved. What sets Chettinad cuisine apart is its masterful use of freshly ground masalas, incorporating a blend of spices like fenugreek, star anise, and peppercorns. Combined with onions, tomatoes, coconut, and aromatic herbs, these masalas transform regional dishes into gastronomic delights. Chettinad cuisine is particularly renowned for its non-vegetarian offerings, including Nattukozhi Kozhambu (country chicken), Aatukari Kozhambu (lamb), and Karaikudi Eral (prawn) masala. These dishes are commonly enjoyed alongside staples like idli, dosa, parotta, and appam, enhancing their flavours and elevating the dining experience.

Photo Credits: A Chettinad House in Karaikudi /Poornima Narayan

Thousands of years ago, the Harappan Civilisation stood among the world’s first urban societies. Cities like Harappa, Mohenjo-Daro, Dholavira, and Lothal were equipped with well-laid-out streets, advanced water and drainage systems, and thriving business workplaces. Yet by the end of the third millennium BCE, most of this advanced civilisation had vanished, its cities abandoned. For decades, historians and archaeologists debated why. However, a major study now suggests a possible answer: prolonged droughts.

Published in the journal “Communications Earth & Environment,” the research involved scientists from IIT Gandhinagar, the University of Arizona, and the University of Colorado Boulder, who combined climate simulations, lake-level records, and cave minerals to reconstruct how water availability changed across the Indus Valley between roughly 5,000 and 3,000 years ago.

The team examined the paleoclimatic records for 17 major Harappan locations and used the Variable Infiltration Capacity (VIC) hydrological model to estimate river flow. In simple terms, they utilised ancient climate data and the VIC model to recreate the climate 4,000-5,000 years ago and examine how major rivers, including the Indus, exhibited changes or unusual drops in water discharge. The simulated climate data and calculations for river flow in the IVC indicated reduced streamflow, which was crucial for irrigation and domestic use.

A Civilisation Built Around Water and the disappearance of water

The Harappans lived in a region heavily shaped by rivers and the monsoon. Their farms depended on seasonal floods, and cities were built near water sources. This system worked beautifully for centuries. Decent rainfall meant a wealthy society. Rivers like the Indus and even the Saraswati were key sources of water for this civilisation.

A new study suggests that approximately 4450 and 3400 years ago, the region experienced distinct, prolonged droughts, each lasting more than 85 years. They discovered that one of the key droughts had lasted for 113 years. During these periods, monsoon rainfall dropped sharply, causing rivers to shrink and water sources to become scarce.

These droughts led to a decline in agricultural activities. Urban systems began to weaken, and the large drainage networks, public wells, and storage facilities became increasingly difficult to manage. Like any other civilisation, population pressure rose sharply.

A Slow Transformation, not a Sudden Collapse

One important point that the researchers emphasised is that the Harappan Civilisation did not disappear overnight. There is no major evidence of war, destruction, or invasion. As water became scarce, people began moving away from the big cities. Many shifted eastward, towards the Ganges Plain, which is one of the most fertile regions. Others settled in smaller villages that relied on simpler, rain-based farming rather than river- or flood-based farming. The famous baked-brick architecture of Harappan cities gave way to more modest settlements. The collapse was not sudden; it was a steady change in lifestyle from urban, planned cities to scattered rural villages.

Why the new Findings Matter

The breakthrough reveals the close interdependence of human societies on the environment. The Harappans were highly skilled builders and planners, but they were still dependent on rainfall. When the climate shifted over centuries, even their highly advanced systems could not adapt. The findings also clarify long-standing theories. For years, people have believed in various theories, such as invasions or sudden disasters, that could have led to the end of the civilisation. However, the evidence now suggests a slow, climate-driven decline. This study helps not only in understanding the past, but also in understanding the climate, resilience, and how societies today can find themselves in a similar position if we do not take action to protect the environment.